Saturday 24 August 2024: From City Streets to Coastal Calm

After a heartfelt send-off from my family, I began my journey in the iconic city of Paris. The excitement was real as I boarded the train, and just under two hours later, I arrived in Bordeaux, a city full of history and charm. It was the perfect place to kick off the adventure.

The first leg of my ride took me through the busy streets of Bordeaux, where the hustle and bustle kept me alert for the first 70 kilometers. The roads were far from quiet, with the flow of traffic a constant presence. But eventually, the urban noise faded, and I found myself cycling through dense woods near the coast. The change in scenery was a relief—a peaceful, solitary ride through nature.

I arrived in Mimizan, a small village known for its fishing and surfing culture. It was an ideal spot to rest before continuing my journey. The village’s laid-back vibe and beautiful beaches were a welcome contrast to the earlier part of the day. As the sun set over the Atlantic, I felt a quiet anticipation for the next leg of the trip, which would take me to San Sebastián. The adventure was just getting started.

Sunday 25 August 2024: Jaizkibel

If you thought the Landes region had shown all its cards yesterday, think again. As beautiful as the day ended yesterday, it began just as wonderfully today. The first 40 kilometers were like a single track for the road bike, weaving through trees with the sea breeze as the soundtrack. Busier surf towns and an industrial city followed, serving as a bridge between the beauty of yesterday and the even greater beauty ahead.

From Saint-Jean-de-Luz, I was captivated by rolling waves and stunning views. The Jaizkibel climb was the final challenge—a straightforward climb on paper, but after 140 kilometers, it felt tougher than expected. The effort was rewarded with breathtaking views before I set course for today’s destination: San Sebastián. This picturesque city, rich in history, awaits my exploration tonight.

Elk z’n zundag!

Monday 26 August 2024: A Journey Beyond the Coast

After leaving behind the charming town of San Sebastián, I continued my journey toward Porto. With the taste of yesterday’s pizza still lingering, I drove out of the stunning bay and headed inland. Along the way, I made a quick stop at Zarautz with my new friend Luis for one last glimpse of the sea, though today’s route would take me mostly away from the coast.

As a preview of the notorious Angliru, I faced its smaller, unnamed sibling—a climb with sections reaching up to 17%. After a challenging descent, a stretch of tailwind, and some wide roads, I safely arrived in Bilbao. This city, famous for the Guggenheim Museum, offers much more than art; the building itself is a masterpiece worth visiting. What lies inside, however, is for you to discover.

Elk z’n maandag

Tuesday 27 August 2024: Riding the Waves

Enriched by the works of artists like Richard Serra and the pop art of Warhol, I continued my journey towards Porto. This was the first stage of a challenging trilogy, setting the tone for the days ahead. Today, I felt like a surfer, constantly riding the rolling waves of the hilly roads until I reached San Vicente.

The ups and downs were relentless, each climb demanding focus and effort. However, every now and then, after conquering a steep ascent, I was rewarded with magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean stretching out before me. These brief moments of awe made the effort worthwhile.

Overall, it was a tough day on the bike, and as I reflect on the kilometers covered, I find myself hoping for a bit less headwind tomorrow as I push onward to the next destination.

Wednesday 28 August 2024: A Journey Beyond the Coast

Where everything felt tough yesterday, today flowed effortlessly. After soaking in a few more phenomenal sea views, I crossed into Asturias. The change was immediate—the bustling roads of previous days gave way to quieter, more serene paths, allowing me to cruise through the mountains with ease. Green, greener, greenest defined the scenery, with endless shades of lush foliage surrounding me throughout the day. The ride felt like a pleasant escape, a perfect balance between challenge and enjoyment.

Arriving in Oviedo, I took my time exploring the city. I wandered through the cozy streets, each corner revealing a bit of history with its ancient buildings and lively squares. Oviedo’s atmosphere was inviting, and the evening felt like a well-deserved break before tomorrow’s looming challenge. As I soaked in the city’s charm, my thoughts kept drifting back to what lies ahead—the infamous Angliru, a climb that demands respect and careful preparation.

As the anticipation builds, I find comfort in a simple but satisfying routine: a hearty plate of pasta followed by a rich tiramisu. It’s my way of recharging, not just physically, but mentally, as I prepare for the toughest test of this journey. Tomorrow will be a different kind of day, but for now, I’m enjoying the calm before the storm.

Elk z’n woensdag.

Thursday 29 August 2024: Conquering the Alto de El Angliru

Today promised to be a mythical day: the Alto de El Angliru. This giant has been the roof of the Vuelta seven times, a climb that commands both fear and respect. Rising to 1,573 meters, its brutal slopes reach gradients of up to 24%, a relentless test of both strength and willpower. I knew this would be the highlight of my trip. The ascent was unforgiving, each pedal stroke feeling like a battle against the mountain itself. But with every twist and turn, the landscape unfolded in all its glory—jagged peaks piercing through the clouds, and valleys stretching out beneath me, a patchwork of green and gold. As I pushed myself onward, the reward was there in the distance: breathtaking views that seemed to stretch on forever.

Despite the protests from my legs, I knew I couldn’t stop. Two more climbs lay ahead: the Alto del Cordal and the Puerto de la Cubilla. It is the latter, however, that will stay with me. The Cubilla, an 18 km climb that winds through the heart of Asturias, offered a different kind of challenge—a long, steady ascent with mist rolling in and out, surrounded by wild horses and grazing cows. The mountain seemed alive, breathing in rhythm with my effort, as I wove my way upward through the clouds.

The descent began on a rugged gravel path, chosen out of necessity, and soon I found myself dropping into a vast and impressive valley. The path was challenging, but it only added to the sense of adventure. And then, as if the day needed a final dramatic flourish, the sky opened up. Thunder cracked, and flashes of lightning lit up the darkening sky. It felt like the elements themselves were celebrating the day.

What a day in the saddle.

Friday 30 August 2024: The Vuelta in Ponferrada

After a tough three-day stretch, today was my first chance for a relatively easy day. Still savoring the thrill of yesterday’s ride, I set off toward Ponferrada, a city known for hosting the 2014 UCI Road World Championships. The route took me along an idyllic country road, winding through picturesque landscapes. About 60 kilometers later, I arrived in Ponferrada, greeted by a lively surprise—the entire spectacle of the Vuelta a España was passing through the city.

Excited by this unexpected encounter, I decided to position myself a few kilometers outside Ponferrada, on a small hill, where I would have a better view of the race. Around 4 p.m., the atmosphere grew electric as the riders approached, and twenty minutes later, I had seen all the cyclists I had hoped to catch a glimpse of, each one charging past with fierce determination. Feeling energized by the experience, I hopped back on my bike and continued towards the day’s final destination, O Barco de Valdeorras.

The ride led me through stunning valleys, where the scenery shifted between lush green vineyards and rugged hillsides, each bend revealing a new vista more beautiful than the last. As the day drew to a close, I arrived at my destination, tired but content..

Saturday 31 August 2024: A Quiet Pause Before Portugal

No remarkable ride today, but the valleys remained as beautiful as ever, even a bit more rugged than before. After climbing a total of 2,000 meters, I arrived in Celanova, a charming village that radiated a warm, familial atmosphere. The cobblestone streets were lined with quaint houses, and the village square buzzed with local life, children playing and neighbors chatting. It felt like a place where everyone knew each other, where time seemed to slow down just a little.

In the evening, I decided to recharge at a local Mexican restaurant, treating myself to a delicious molcajete—a rich, savory dish served in a steaming hot stone bowl, brimming with flavors that warmed both body and soul. As I enjoyed the meal, I found myself thinking ahead to tomorrow’s adventure: crossing into Portugal.

Sunday 1 September 2024: Climbing Through Peneda-Gerês to Braga

Today, the plan was to cross into Portugal. The day began with a 10 km climb that served as a perfect warm-up for the challenges ahead. I entered Portugal through the steep slopes of the Peneda-Gerês National Park, a stunning natural landscape that offered phenomenal views over the vast valleys below. The scenery was breathtaking, with every turn revealing a new perspective of rugged beauty and untouched wilderness.

After reaching the Portela de Leonte, I continued for another 50 km until I arrived in Braga. The city immediately captivated me with its medieval charm, its skyline dominated by numerous cathedrals and historic buildings. Braga felt like stepping back in time—a place where history seemed to linger in every corner.

Monday 2 September 2024: The final push

One final ride to complete this bikepacking journey. Navigating through busy roads—what else could I expect when entering a major city—I arrived in Porto. A magnificent city with a rich and vast history, though there wasn’t enough time to explore it all. Still, reaching Porto marked the end of an incredible adventure.

1,251 kilometers, 51 hours and 7 minutes in the saddle, and 15,786 meters of climbing brought me from Bordeaux to Porto. It was an unparalleled journey filled with highs and lows, but above all, an unforgettable experience.
Milan out.