Thursday 24 August 2022: Exploring the Rugged Beauty of Iceland’s Westfjords

Embarking on our journey from the northern reaches of Iceland, we find ourselves in the breathtaking expanse of the Westfjords. Our route winds through mountainous terrain on gravel paths, each twist and turn offering glimpses of pristine snow-covered landscapes. As we ascend to the summit, the vista opens before us, revealing the majesty of the next fjord in all its beauty.

However, our descent is not without its trials, as a sharp stone leads to our first encounter with a flat tire. Undeterred, we make an unexpected detour to Flateyri, a town whose name belies its ironic twist, to refuel and regroup. Beneath the gentle warmth of the sun, we press on, eager to explore further.

Traversing the serene landscape toward Dyrafjordur, our destination seems very close, yet the fjord’s geography necessitates a circuitous 30-kilometer detour. Undeterred by this twist of fate, we embrace the opportunity to ride along a picturesque road, relishing in the raw beauty of our surroundings.

As the day draws to a close, we reflect on our journey’s first leg, marked by three flat tires and the unexpected loss of a pair of shoes. Despite these challenges, our spirits remain undimmed, fueled by the promise of adventure that lies ahead in Iceland’s untamed wilderness.

Friday 25 August 2022: Embracing Solitude and Majesty

Leaving the familiarity of paved roads behind, our journey veers onto a gravel path, tracing the contours of the fjord. Along the rugged coastline, where sea meets land, the road unfolds with breathtaking vistas of beaches and towering cliffs. Here, amidst the solitude, our only companions are the occasional sheep, as we revel in the serene connection between rider and bike.

Seventy kilometers of pure pleasure lead us to the awe-inspiring Dynjandi Falls, a colossal testament to nature’s grandeur. Pausing to stow our bikes, we embark on a leisurely stroll toward the cascading waters, immersing ourselves in the majesty of this natural wonder.

As our interlude concludes, the route ascends, cutting through the fjord’s rugged terrain. With each meter gained, temperatures plummet, and a fierce wind descends from the mountain’s peak. Yet, undeterred by nature’s forces, we press on, driven by the promise of what lies ahead.

Arriving at the next fjord, a welcome sight awaits: a natural hot spring, offering respite from the chill and revitalizing our weary bodies for the final leg of our journey. Though the stage has been grueling, its beauty unparalleled, leaving an indelible mark on our souls as perhaps the most magnificent route ever traversed.

Saturday 26 August 2022: From Fjord to Fjord Through Iceland’s Mountains

After yesterday’s grueling stage, today we opt mainly for asphalt roads. Instead of hugging the fjords, we traverse them through the mountains. Each time we reach a fjord, we face new weather conditions: sometimes headwinds, but also frequently a favorable tailwind.

By midday, we reach the last supermarket we’ll encounter for the next two days. We load our bags with pasta and sauce to sustain us in the coming days. After three demanding climbs, we finally reach the fjord where we’ll spend the night. Thirty more kilometers along the water separate us from our lodging.

In our group, we ride in echelons to make the notorious crosswinds somewhat more bearable. Exhausted, we eventually reach our accommodation for the night. And yes, once again, a delightful hot spring awaits us beside our lodging.

Sunday 27 August 2022: A lovely offroad route thanks to a local

The initial plan was to take a relatively short trip along the fjords. However, upon receiving a tip from a local at our hotel, we learned of the possibility to take the more challenging old highway through the mountains. The decision was quickly made, and we stuffed ourselves at breakfast to prepare for our journey through the wilderness.

The neglected path proved to be demanding but manageable. We encountered river crossings here and there, but overall, the journey to the summit went smoothly. After briefly losing the trail, the descent demanded our full attention, yet rewarded us with breathtaking views of the fjords stretching out below.

Eventually, we rejoined the asphalt road, and the second part of our ride progressed smoothly. Despite encountering a few more climbs, the radiant sun and short sleeves made the journey enjoyable. We reached our secluded lodging, tucked away in the wilderness, where we retrieved the pasta and sauce, ready to savor a well-deserved meal.

Monday 28 August 2022: Leaving the Westfjords

Our day started with the exhilarating challenge of conquering the Vestfjardavegur climb, a 6-kilometer ascent that culminates at the summit of a majestic hill. From there, the terrain mellows, offering a respite as you traverse along a gravel road towards the next fjord.

Unlike conventional routes, this journey takes a captivating turn as you cross a magnificent dam, riding straight through the shimmering waterscape. The scenery unfolds like a painting, captivating your senses with its sheer splendor.

Arriving at an inviting inn, you’re greeted with a welcome respite from days of pasta, indulging in a hearty dinner to replenish your energy for the adventures that lie ahead.

Continuing along the final fjord of the trip, you navigate along a secluded gravel road, accompanied only by the symphony of nature. As you approach journey’s end, the route leads you through two massive rocks, a testament to the untamed grandeur of the region.

At last, you arrive at a charming old farm nestled against the backdrop of the fjord, where comfortable rooms offer panoramic views of the surrounding magnificence. It’s a fitting conclusion to a series of unforgettable experiences in the heart of the Westfjords, leaving you with memories to cherish for a lifetime.

Tuesday 29 August 2022: Biking Through the Elements in Iceland

Our sixth day of biking through Iceland began with a familiar challenge: the same gravel road as the day before. The wind was fierce, a relentless headwind that demanded we take turns leading the pack, each of us braving the front to help the others make progress. Despite the effort, the quiet and solitude of the road provided a strange serenity, and we settled into a rhythm, pushing forward until we finally reached the blessed relief of a paved surface.

Our first stop of the day was a cozy little café, a welcome oasis where we took the opportunity to refuel and recharge. As we warmed up with coffee and snacks, we shared stories of our adventures with fellow travelers who were also exploring the rugged beauty of Iceland.

But soon, we were back on the road, heading south. The wind was not done with us yet. As we approached the hilly zone, it picked up even more strength, howling through the landscape and tearing our group apart. We found ourselves scattered along the road, each struggling to maintain our pace against the gusts. To cope, we formed echelons, a technique that allowed us to push on to the base of the hill.

Once on the hill, the terrain offered some shelter from the wind, and we were able to regroup and climb steadily to the top. At the summit, we were rewarded with breathtaking views, but there was little time to linger; a swift descent awaited us, leading us toward the famous Golden Circle.

As we descended, the quiet roads gave way to busier traffic. The Golden Circle, a popular route for tourists, was noticeably more crowded than what we had encountered so far. We decided to take a small detour to the Glanni Waterfalls. The waterfalls were stunning, a perfect spot for a brief respite before we returned to Bifröst, where we would spend the night.

Bifröst, nestled in a tourist-heavy area, came with its own surprises. Everything was noticeably more expensive, a stark reminder of the region’s popularity. However, we ended the day on a high note with a short walk to a small volcano near our hotel. The volcanic landscape, bathed in the soft glow of the evening light, was a fitting end to a day full of Iceland’s dramatic elements—wind, hills, waterfalls, and even a volcano.

Wednesday 30 August 2022: Racing Against the Rain in Iceland

We had been blessed with good weather for the first days of our trip, but the strong winds of yesterday signaled that a change was coming. The forecast warned of rain, and we knew we had to stay ahead of it. Determined to reach our destination before the skies opened up, we started early, pedaling through the morning mist.

The ride began on beautiful gravel roads, and we quickly left the Ring Road behind us. The scenery was stunning, with the rugged Icelandic landscape unfolding around us. We took turns riding in echelons again, battling the wind that had not yet relented. A few kilometers in, we were rewarded with a spectacular sight: a beautiful geyser erupting into the crisp air. We took a short break, pausing to admire the natural wonder, and soaked in the warmth of the geothermal steam, a brief respite from the cold.

But soon, we were back in the saddle, knowing that our desolate hotel awaited us at the end of the day. The last stretch took us over challenging gravel roads that had become slick and muddy, turning into true Icelandic “water” roads. The rain began to pour, and every pedal stroke became a test of endurance. The cold water soaked through our clothes.

By the time we reached our destination, we were completely drained, our bodies cold and tired from the relentless elements. The first thing we did was head for a hot shower, letting the warm water wash away the exhaustion of the day. With nothing else around for miles, we had no choice but to dine at the hotel. We ended our day with a movie.

Thursday 31 August 2022: Battling the Icelandic weather

The storm from yesterday had not yet passed. The weather gods were still not in our favour, and we found ourselves starting the day with a grueling gravel climb in the same wet, harsh conditions. Reaching the top of the climb, we found ourselves on an exposed plateau where the weather was truly unforgiving. The wind howled around us, and each pedal stroke felt like a battle against an invisible force. Progress was slow, and for hours it felt like it was man versus nature, a struggle to inch forward under the relentless assault of wind and rain.

After what felt like an eternity, we finally reached a descent into a lower region. Gravity became our ally, and we gratefully coasted down to a small café, where we could catch our breath. It was a haven from the storm, and we quickly changed into dry clothes and warmed ourselves with hot drinks. The brief rest worked wonders for our spirits.

The next stretch of our ride took us past spectacular geological formations—giant holes in the earth’s crust that seemed to open up to another world. The beauty of the landscape was a welcome distraction from the weather. Though the rain had eased, the wind still challenged us at every turn.

After an exhausting day, we finally reached our hostel, our refuge for the night. There, we met some helpful fellow travelers who offered to take us to the nearest shop, a welcome gesture that made our evening much easier. Grateful and utterly tired after two rough days of battling the weather, we decided to call it an early night.

Friday 1 September 2022: Sunlit Roads to Reykjavik

We woke up to find the storm had finally passed, and we were greeted with clear skies and sunshine. It felt like a gift after the last two days of battling relentless rain and wind. With the sun warming our faces, we started our day with a little detour to the Merið crater. Standing at the edge of this impressive crater, we marveled at its sheer size and the colors of its volcanic walls—a reminder of Iceland’s incredible geological forces at work.

After our visit, we continued our route towards Reykjavik, our destination. The scenery along the way was breathtaking; we cycled past beautiful lakes and passed by steaming geysers, their plumes rising against the clear blue sky. The day’s biggest challenge awaited us: a short but steep climb over a ridge. We pushed ourselves up the hill, and at the top, we were rewarded with a stunning descent. The landscape unfolded before us, with sweeping views that stretched toward the horizon as we coasted down toward Reykjavik.

The final stretch took us through a singletrack trail in the forest. With the sun filtering through the leaves and the scent of pine in the air, it was a joyful ride. As we pedaled into Reykjavik, we felt a sense of accomplishment and relief. The city welcomed us with its relaxed vibe, and we were thrilled to find excellent cycling paths and minimal traffic, making the ride into the city center easy and stress-free.

Once in Reykjavik, we had plenty of options to explore and eat, so we took some time to wander through the city, enjoying its unique charm.

Saturday 2 September 2022: A Northern Light Farewell

For our final day in Iceland, we decided to change our plans. Instead of heading straight to the airport, we chose to make one last detour—to visit an active volcano in the southern part of the island. Our adventure began on a paved road, but soon we veered off onto a gravel path that wound through fields of volcanic ash. The landscape around us was otherworldly, a stark, rugged terrain shaped by ancient lava flows and dotted with black rocks. We spent the entire day riding through this volcanic landscape, fully immersed in Iceland’s raw beauty.

After a few kilometers, we arrived at the foot of the active volcano. The sight of it was awe-inspiring, with smoke and steam rising from its crater. Eager to get closer, we decided to tie up our bikes and hike towards the top. The walk was steep and challenging, our legs still feeling the strain from days of biking, but the anticipation of witnessing this natural wonder up close kept us moving. After a tough climb, we reached the closest point possible and stood in silence, marveling at the power and magnificence of the volcano.

With the volcano behind us, all that remained was the last stretch of our journey to Keflavík. We rode the final kilometers with a mix of exhilaration and exhaustion, knowing our adventure was coming to an end. When we finally reached our hotel, we began disassembling our bikes, preparing them for the trip home. The day had already turned to night by the time we finished, and as we looked up, Iceland presented us with a final, unforgettable gift: the Northern Lights. Dancing across the sky in vivid greens and purples, the aurora was a perfect farewell.

Tired but filled with gratitude, we watched the lights swirl and flicker, a magical ending to our adventure in Iceland. It was the perfect conclusion to a trip filled with challenges, beauty, and unforgettable moments.